Swarms = Free Bees
2010
04.23
04.23
Preparing for Swarm Season
Want to catch a $100 bill blowing in the wind. This is how…
Swarms are nature’s way of increasing the honeybee’s numbers and replenishing the bee population that died off. About a quarter to half the hive leaves, and establishes itself elsewhere.
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As beekeepers, we want to prevent swarming in our own hives and catch swarms from other hives. Effectively, any swarm we catch is worth the same as a package of new bees. Catching swarms can be tricky, you need to be prepared for the season. Here is my advice for swarm catching:
- Prepare a dozen swarm traps during winter. Have locations in your mind where you want to hang these. Make sure to order your Lemon Grass Oil for baiting the hives.
- Contact your local fire department in early Spring and volunteer for swarm removal
- Contact your local Agriculture agency that you do swarm removals
- Post on Craigslist that you remove swarms for free or up to about $50 depending on supply and demand in your area.
- Have hive bodies ready to go for swarm season, when it hits you could get 5 swarms in 5 days. Carry an extra hive body in the trunk of your car, you will need it. I’d recommend 2 – a deep and a nuc.
Swarm removal is fairly easy. You need a few things:
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- Beesuit – Don’t believe that swarms are passive and gentle and you can remove them without a veil and suit. The first swarm you run into that was caught in a few days of bad weather will teach you the meaning of pain when they open up a can of whoop-ass on your unprotected arms, face, and torso. Treat them like a drunk with a gun, gentle and usually harmless.
- Brush, Smoker, fuel, lighter – Normal gear.
- Blanket – Sometime you need to shake them off a branch and over tall grass. It is far better to put down a blanket, as they get lost in grass easily.
- Hive body, maybe two, bottom,
Hi. In Britanny, Northern france we have been using 5 frame nucs for traps. They are baited with Swarm catch feromone (contains Nasanov). Each trap has standard Dadant frames of imprinted wax (sheets) and Ideally 2 of these frames are taken from either end of our main bee hives during the first inspection in March in order to give the scout bees something to fly home about. It goes without saying that an old trap that is well gummed up with propolis will out perform a brand new trap. The inner volume works out to be approx 22 litres and the front entrances is approx 20cm square.
What do you think on volume sizes in relation to entrance holes and with regards tothe lemon grass oil you use, is there a better then most that you would reccomend and re the zip lock bag in the trap. How much oil, on to how bigger sized kitchen roll ,in to how bigger sized bag. Sorry to be a bit geeky but its really important I know what you have tried, I have ordered enough swasrm catch for 15 traps for next year but I want to try another 5 with lemon grsass oil.
Thanks and looking forward to your reply,
Richard
22 liters is a bit small. I’d build larger traps in the 30-40 liter range. The amount of lemon grass oil per hive should stay the same at 8 drops on a cotton ball in a sandwich zip lock bag. 20cm sq is good for an entrance hole.
Have you tried Nasanov feromone vs Lemon grassoil. Can you combine the two for greater effectiveness?
Greats article Mccartney. Really enjoyed watching the videos and readings this article. I have knocked up a bait hive last night based on your design. enough for 5 national frames. I like the idea/suggestion of hanging it in a tree. I will get some lemon grass oil to put inside or some used frames next year. I am new to beekeeping and only started in June but I got my second hive up and running when I put 2 empty supers to one side with a lid and floor in the apiary, when I came to the apiary one day there was a swarm trying to get in, so I helped them along and left them to it. They are doing very well now and should be ok through winter.
Can you use virgin top bars in your swarm box. And will there be a queen in that swarm? I assume at least an old queen??? Should these newly captured swarms have a new queen introduced, or will the swarm take care of that problem??
I got the bee bug, Im just starting to read and watch your videos. Thank You for passing on your vast knowledge of beekeeping. Im in NC. Starting to build some top bar hives for next spring. I watched the video on swarm trap building boxes with frames that go into square hives. I was wondering if its ok to build a box with sloped sides and 17″ top bars that would transfer into a 36″ or 48″ long top bar hive? Maybe five or top bars? Thanks
Yes, you can just as easily build a TBH swarm trap. 17″ bars seem narrow. I’m on ~20″ bars. I’d recommend 7-10 bars, the trapezoid shape shrinks the apparent volume. Make sure you hit the 30 liter minimum. And don’t build just one, build several. It is just like fishing, but over a much longer timeframe. And the fish are biting!
McCartney,
I don’t know if you are aware of it, but you don’t have to order lemongrass oil if you have a good herb shop in town. I picked up some for around $7.00.
Good hunting, and you can buy me a cup of coffee it this helps. LOL
Jeff
I wanted to know witch is better for a swarm trap- in a meadow, on a tree, or on a stand, beside a small grove of trees?
I want to go catch other people’s swarms – people who are not beekeepers. What is the best way to alert the public that I will remove their swarms for free?
Post an add in Craigslist “WIll remove bee swarms free.” and explain that a swarm is free hanging but an established hive is not. That is an effective way to reach people.
I read your book and built a trap used lemon grass oil and old comb. Just caught my first swarm 10/17/14. Thanks a Bunch!
Hey i found your site today trying to find ways to get free bees. Is the end of January too late to build and bait traps?
Can you bait a new hive and attract a swarm or does this not work as well as making a box to bait them too. Still trying to figure this all out…
can’t you just bait a new hive or do you have to actually build a special swarm catching box?